If there's one question I hear often at my shop, it's about watering. When? How much? From the top or from the bottom? And most of all… why is my plant unhappy even though I’m watering it “properly”?
In this article, I share the essential basics to help you understand how to water your plants well, along with my professional tips as a floral artisan to avoid the most common traps. Because yes, watering is one of the main causes of houseplant decline—and it’s rarely from lack of water…
Plant care guides often recommend fixed watering frequencies: “once a week,” “every 10 days”... but there’s no universal rule. What works for your neighbor might kill your plant at home. It all depends on your environment: light, temperature, pot type, humidity, heating, air conditioning...
The most important thing is observation. Limp or yellowing leaves don’t always mean a plant is thirsty. Overwatering often causes similar symptoms—silently—at the roots.
My tip: Better to slightly underwater than overwater. A dry plant might bounce back. A soggy plant? Often too late.
Before grabbing your watering can, ask a simple question: Where does my plant come from? Its native region will give you clues.
- Tropical plant: loves consistent humidity without excess. Water regularly and mist if the air is dry.
- Mediterranean or desert plant (like succulents or cacti): prefers very dry soil. Water rarely, but thoroughly.
- Temperate climate plant: usually needs regular watering, but prefers the soil to dry slightly between waterings.
In spring and summer, plant needs increase—especially during growth. But heat doesn’t always mean thirst!
In winter, most plants slow down: space out the watering. Be cautious though—heaters can dry the air quickly.
That’s the real question. Watering, yes—but at the right time. For that, you need to read the signs.
Contrary to popular belief, I don’t recommend sticking your finger into the soil. It only gives a superficial idea and isn't always easy. I prefer using a wooden skewer: insert it deep into the soil—if it comes out dry, it’s time to water. Simple, effective, and inexpensive!
For those who want a more advanced option, I also offer battery-free moisture sensors in my shop and online. Placed in the pot, a small needle shows the actual moisture level. It's a great way to gain confidence—and to learn how to “read” your plants.
Each plant, each pot, and each situation calls for a specific method. Here are the main ones—with their pros and cons.
The most common technique: pour water on the soil surface, ideally using a narrow-spout watering can. Works well for many plants—as long as you pour slowly so the water has time to seep in. If the soil is very dry, it might repel water like a hard sponge. In that case, water in two rounds or scratch the surface a bit.
Avoid wetting the foliage, especially under direct light, to prevent spots or disease.
Also called soaking, this is my favorite method—I use it for most of the plants in the shop. It’s especially efficient with raw terracotta pots. Pour water into a saucer or basin and let the pot absorb what it needs from below. This way, the plant takes just the right amount without drowning the roots. Be patient: wait until the top of the soil feels slightly moist before removing and draining the pot.
The idea: immerse the entire pot (or plant) in a container of water until bubbles stop rising. It ensures deep rehydration—perfect after missed waterings.
It takes some handling—not ideal for large pots—and it’s best to add a bit of heavy mulch to prevent the soil from floating away.
The olla is a small unglazed clay reservoir that you bury in the potting mix near the roots. Once filled, it slowly releases water as the soil needs it. No overwatering, no waste—just the right moisture for several days.
This method is perfect for:
- Indoor plants that like steady humidity
- People who travel often
- Or anyone who wants to water less frequently
In the shop, I offer different olla models that fit 15 cm pots. A small, simple gesture for happy plants—and a little more peace of mind.
Some plants enjoy an occasional lukewarm shower: it removes dust, slightly hydrates the soil, and can chase off pests. It’s especially helpful for large-leaf plants like Monstera, Ficus, or Schefflera.
Use lukewarm water, low pressure, and do it in the morning to give the plant time to dry. Avoid it when the plant is in bloom.
Misting doesn’t replace watering—but it can mimic the humid air of tropical environments, especially in dry winter months. Some plants love it, others don’t.
Avoid misting flowers, and never spray in full sun. Calatheas, ferns, or fittonias will appreciate it. Cacti and succulents won’t.
More and more people are growing houseplants without soil—just in water. That’s hydroponics. It involves placing a plant in a container of water (sometimes with added nutrients), where roots grow freely.
Some species adapt very well: pothos, philodendrons, monsteras, tradescantias... Hydroponics makes it easy to monitor root development and avoid watering mistakes.
Before thinking about watering, make sure excess water can escape. That means:
- A draining hole—absolutely essential!
- A drainage layer (clay pebbles, gravel...) at the bottom to keep roots out of stagnant water.
Don’t let your decorative pot act as a permanent water reservoir. Always let the water drain fully and empty the excess.
If your pot isn’t or can’t be pierced, it’s doable—but trickier. Water carefully, in small amounts, and monitor the bottom closely.
Also important: the potting mix. Heavy soils rich in sphagnum moss or coconut coir hold moisture longer—good for ferns and alocasias, risky if you tend to overwater. On the other hand, sandy mixes with perlite or bark drain quickly—ideal for cacti, succulents, and moisture-sensitive plants.
If your plant stays too wet (or too dry), don’t hesitate to change the mix. It can make a real difference.
Rainwater is best—soft and chlorine-free. If using tap water, let it sit 24 hours to let the chlorine evaporate.
And never water with cold water—it shocks the roots. Go for room temperature or slightly lukewarm.
We love fixed schedules (“Tuesday is watering day!”), but they often lead to overwatering. At home and in the shop, I check on my plants two or three times a week. I look, touch, test the moisture, and adapt.
And most of all: I don’t water out of habit—I water when it’s needed.
